Koshtan-Tau is the highest peak (5,144m) of the Koshtan massif of the central Caucasus Mountains in the Kabardino-Balkaria Republic of Russia, near the border with Georgia. The peak was first ascended in 1889 by Herman Woolley and party.
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Nestled on the north side of the majestic dome of Dykh Tau, which proudly stands as the second highest peak in Europe, lies the striking ice pyramid of Koshtan Tau. Despite its impressive stature and remarkable attributes, Koshtan Tau often finds itself overshadowed by its more renowned neighboring peaks, particularly the illustrious “five thousanders” like Elbrus, Dykh, and Shkhara.
Koshtan Tau, which translates from the Balkarian language as “mountain with a pasture at its foot,” ranks as the fourth highest peak in Europe. Its compelling history is intertwined with the “golden age” of mountaineering achievements that emerged in the late 19th century. This period saw the successful ascent of numerous iconic alpine routes, which eventually became classics in both Russian and international mountaineering lore.
The inaugural ascent of Koshtan Tau occurred in 1889, marking a significant milestone in mountaineering history. This climb followed closely on the heels of successful ascents in 1888 of notoriously challenging peaks such as Dykh Tau, Shkhara, and Ushba. The expedition was organized by the Austrian Alpine Club, supported by the Royal Geographical Society. Under the leadership of Hermann Wooley, the Club’s president, the team embarked on this ambitious journey to conquer Koshtan Tau.
The climbers approached the summit via the North Ridge, a route that has withstood the test of time and remains the most logical and popular path for those aspiring to reach the summit of Koshtan Tau. This historical ascent not only opened the door to future climbers but also solidified the peak’s status in the world of mountaineering as a worthy challenge in its own right, deserving of recognition alongside its towering counterparts.
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Koshtan-Tau beckons adventurers and thrill-seekers from across the globe, drawing them to its towering heights for an unforgettable challenge and mesmerizing vistas of the majestic mountains that surround it. Standing as the fourth highest peak in Europe, Koshtan is one of the legendary “Brothers of Bezengi,” proudly marking the eastern end of the Northern Massif.
Get ready for an exhilarating journey that promises breathtaking views and an adrenaline rush like no other!
Destination Name: Koshtan-Tau
Destination Heights: 5,151 m (16,902 ft)
Destination Latitude: 43.049874
Destination Longitude: 43.216957
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Frequently Asked Question Of Travellers
How to Get to the Peak on Foot?
Route One – West Side:
To begin your ascent via the west side, start by following the right-hand edge of the Mizhirgi Glacier. Continue along this path until you reach the junction of two glaciers. This junction is not only a key wayfinding location, but it’s also an ideal spot to stash any gear and food that you won’t need for the remainder of your climb. Many experienced climbers use this area to lighten their load for the trek ahead.
As you traverse the landscape leading to this junction, you’ll find several suitable camping locations. Given the challenging nature of the journey, it’s advisable to consider making this your stopping point for the day, especially since covering the entire distance in a single day can be quite demanding for most climbers.
The grassy ground at the junction serves as an excellent campsite, with ample space for tents and a beautiful view, making it a favorite among climbers for gear stashing. However, one must exercise extreme caution while crossing the glacier, as it is riddled with numerous dangerous crevasses that can pose significant risks if not navigated carefully.
Route Two – East Side:
Alternatively, consider taking the eastern side of the valley for your ascent. The footpath quality here is comparable to that of the western route, but this side offers unique scenic views and the opportunity to explore some delightful side valleys that lead to intriguing climbing formations.
As you progress towards the junction on this side, pay close attention to your surroundings to identify a suitable spot for pitching your tent. Suitable camping areas become scarce as you move further up the trail, and reaching the foot of the peak in a single day can be exceptionally challenging, particularly if you haven’t properly acclimatized to the altitude.
During your hike, you will encounter the three notable steps of the Mizhirgi Glacier, which require careful negotiation. Some sections will necessitate actual climbing techniques, and it is highly recommended to rope up for safety. For a smoother and safer passage, stay on the left-hand side of the glacier while remaining vigilant of the potential for rock falls, which can occur without warning.
At the top of the third step lies a flat snowfield known as “Camp 3900.” This area is well regarded among climbers as a perfect campsite, providing a comfortable spot to rest before making the final push to the peak. Its strategic location not only offers a serene environment but also positions you conveniently for your ascent.
When Is a Good Time to Climb Koshtan Tua?
Climbing Koshtan Tua is an option throughout the year, but the experience varies significantly by season. In winter, climbers should brace themselves for frigid temperatures and harsh conditions that require advanced skills and proper gear.
The mountain can be cloaked in snow and ice, making it exceptionally challenging. As such, winter climbs are less common due to the increased risk of avalanches on all routes. For those who prefer gentler conditions, late spring and summer offer a more temperate climate with blooming vegetation and warmer sun, making it an ideal time for climbers who enjoy milder weather.
Is Camping Allowed While Reaching the Mountain?
Yes, camping is permitted throughout the vast expanse of Bezengi National Park. This provides climbers and hikers the flexibility to immerse themselves in the natural beauty of the area. However, if you plan to camp near Camp Bezengi, it’s advisable to check in with the camp administration first.
This ensures that you do not disrupt any larger group activities or logistical plans that might be in place, thus promoting a harmonious experience for all outdoor enthusiasts in the region.
Are There Any Types of Accommodation Available?
Accommodation options are readily available at Camp Bezengi, which caters to the needs of climbers and trekkers. Prices begin at a budget-friendly €3 for a basic room, ensuring affordability for all adventurers.
For those seeking a bit more comfort, the most upscale rooms are available for €10, featuring amenities such as hot showers and private toilets. Additionally, various basic huts are scattered throughout Bezengi National Park, offering free lodging options for those who are looking to minimize costs while enjoying their outdoor experience.
Are There Any Types of Maps and Route Information?
Visitors can obtain high-quality topographic maps at a small shop located at the base of Koshtan Tua. These maps, available in a detailed 1:50,000 scale, are particularly valuable given their rarity and the included ratings of the passes, helping climbers navigate the terrain effectively.
The shop stocks not only maps specific to Bezengi but also coverage for many of the most fascinating areas within the Caucasus. Each map is priced at a modest €1.5, making them an affordable investment for any adventurer seeking to explore the region.
What About Safety in the Caucasus Mountains?
Contrary to popular belief, the entire Caucasus region is not characterized by an inherent danger of kidnapping or armed conflict. While some areas, such as Chechnya and parts of Dagestan, do have security concerns, the Bezengi area and nearly all regions west of it are regarded as safe for travelers. Local authorities and military personnel actively monitor border areas, ensuring that visitors remain in secure zones.
Army checkpoints are strategically placed in all valleys leading to the Georgia border, providing an additional layer of safety by preventing accidental entry into riskier regions. Therefore, climbers can confidently enjoy their adventure in Bezengi National Park, reassured by these safety measures.
